Using Different Products from Different Lines

Problem: I've been following your advice and am using products from several different lines. My skin is doing well, but all the cosmetics salespeople say it is a mistake to mix and match. They say products are designed to work together, and that is what helps the skin best.

Solution: Stop listening to those cosmetics salespeople; they are wrong. If every line had SPF 15 sunscreens with the requisite UVA protection, gentle cleansers with nonirritating ingredients, foundations that aren't peach-colored, and on and on, I would agree that you don't need to mix and match. But I have found good and bad products in every line. Many lines don't have adequate sunscreens, while they do have products that contain irritating ingredients, or offer rose, peach, and ashen foundation colors, or make mascaras that flake and smear. If you only buy products from one line, chances are that you will end up with some bad products! Mixing and matching is the only way to go. You don't wear clothes from one designer, buy furniture from one manufacturer, take medicine from one pharmaceutical company, or eat food from just one company. The only way to develop a successful skin-care or makeup routine is to select what works best for your skin type and needs, not because it's from a particular line.

Small Lips

Problem: I have small lips. Any lipstick color I put on seems to make this more noticeable. What should I do?

Solution: To deal with small lips, do not over-line them to make them look larger. The technique of creating a new lip line works great in photographs, but in real life it looks like you missed your mouth. And, to keep up the look you have to touch up your lipstick and pencil the second any wears off. What works best is lining just to the outside or edge of your true lip line with a natural-colored lip liner. Do not wear dark lipstick because it will make your lips look smaller. A true red or any vivid color will make your lips look bigger. You can always consider cosmetic surgery procedures that enlarge lips, but that would be a last resort after experimenting with lipstick options.

Seasonal Changes

Problem: During the winter I use an emollient moisturizer you recommend and it works great, but during the summer it seems a bit much. Should I change what I do with the seasons?

Solution: Summer can require a change in skin-care products, particularly moisturizers. Instead of the richer or more emollient moisturizers you were wearing to combat the dry heat indoors and the dry cold outdoors, consider lighter moisturizers that come in gel or gel/lotion consistencies. Keep in mind that the concept here is to cut back on the amount of moisturizer you use. Moisturizer is for dry skin, so if you don't have dry skin, you don't need moisturizer. Also, remember that no matter how much moisturizer you wear, and no matter how many antioxidants it contains, it won't change or prevent one wrinkle on your face. What a lightweight moisturizer can do is soothe dryness and make fine lines less noticeable. Nothing is erased or changed, but things your skin does appear smoother. And this is at night, right? During the day you should be using a sunscreen with UVA-protecting ingredients for your face and exposed parts or your body.

Makeup Color Selections for Redheads

Problem: I am a natural redhead and have problems finding makeup professionals who are trained to advise someone with my coloring (I have bright red hair, pale skin, and freckles). I've had lots of makeovers at department store makeup counters and always walk out looking either overly made up or wearing colors that clash with my hair! What colors do you suggest?

Solution: The answer to your question seems rather simple to me, so I'm not sure what's going wrong when you get your makeup done professionally. For you, the sheerest foundation is best. If a makeup artist is trying to cover up your freckles, he or she should be reprimanded. Neutral golden tan as well as camel and chestnut brown colors for eyeshadows, blush, and lipsticks are made for your coloring. You can try a golden coral-brown for lipstick or blush if you want a dash more color. Although those colors are considered tried and true for redheads, there really is no color barrier these days when choosing colors. A vibrant red with a soft reddish-brown blush can look wonderful and quite dramatic on someone with your coloring. In the long run, keep experimenting until you find colors you're comfortable with.

When it comes to mascara, stay with brown and avoid black, which can be too hard a look on fair, freckled skin. Also keep in mind that makeup is not supposed to match hair color. A woman with gray hair doesn't need to wear gray colors, and you have alternatives too.

Lashes Falling Out

Problem: My lashes are falling out! Is there anything I can do to stop this from happening?

Solution: It is natural for lashes to shed and re-grow, but if you are noticing bald spots along your lash line, you may need to change some of your cleansing habits. Do not wipe off eye makeup. Wiping and pulling at the eyes can pull out lashes. Do not rub your eyes, especially when you are wearing mascara. Also, do not overuse mascara. I know it is tempting to have long, dramatically thick lashes, but the weight of the mascara can be too much for delicate lashes. Waterproof mascaras are the most difficult to remove and can take too many lashes with them. You might also want to change mascaras. It is unlikely that you are allergic to the mascara you are using, but try switching brands and see what happens.

By the way, you aren't using an eyelash curler, are you? Over time, the consistent tugging can pull out lashes. Another possibility: Noncosmetic allergies could be playing a part in your eyelash dilemma. The only solution is antihistamines or eliminating the allergens causing the problem. For example, if you are allergic to the down in your pillows, change to a synthetic fill. Hay fever can also cause the eye area to swell, damaging eyelashes.

Medically speaking, doctors refer to the loss of eyelashes as madarosis. According to ophthalmologist Dr. William Trattler, "While it may seem like mainly a cosmetic problem, the condition can be an indicator of something more serious, such as eye trauma, eyelid infections and even cancer of the eyelid. In addition, metabolic conditions such as hypothyroidism and pituitary insufficiency can cause madarosis" (Source: http://www.ivillagehealth.com).

It is also possible that the eyelash loss could be attributed to the presence of a mite called D. folliculorum. When it is active in small hair and eyelash follicles it can consume epithelial cells, causing the follicle to become swollen, inflamed, and plugged. All of this can lead to the eyelashes falling out. Fortunately, this problem is easily treated once correctly diagnosed. (Source: eMedicine Journal, May 11, 2001, volume 2, number 5.)

If you feel that your loss of eyelash hair is chronic, it is necessary to see an eyelid specialist (called an oculoplastic surgeon) and have him carefully examine your eyelid to determine the cause of the madarosis.

Lack of Eyebrows

Problem: My eyebrows are very thin and go from the inner corner of my eye to maybe ¾ the length of my eye (right where they should be arching). I draw in the rest with a brow powder, but if I sweat or sleep, the half of the eyebrow that I've drawn in disappears. I've thought about tattooing them. Do you have any other suggestions for me?

Solution: There are two potential solutions to your dilemma, and thankfully neither involves committing to a tattoo! The first option would be to continue to use the brow powder you like, but setting it with a brow sealant after the product has dried. These sealants are primarily alcohol with some potent film-forming agents, and they tend to be water- and smudge-resistant. Try BeneFit's She-Laq ($24) or, better yet, a clear brow gel such as those from Cover Girl or Max Factor.

Another option is to use a matte finish, waterproof brow or eye pencil to draw on the sparse portion of your natural brow. Although I am not a fan of brow pencils, there are some great ones out there that show a marked improvement over traditional hard or greasy brow pencils, though the best of these are rather expensive. Try M.A.C.'s Eye Brow Pencil ($12.50), Christian Dior's Powder Eyebrow Pencil ($21), or Lancome's Le Crayon Poudre for the Brows ($19.50). You may find that using the pencil and painting over the line with a dab of brow sealant is your best bet for worry-free wear. Nevertheless, do keep in mind that it's unrealistic to expect makeup to stay perfect if you happen to fall asleep!

I am leery of makeup tattooing, but when you have no eyebrows hair at all, it is not an option to dismiss outright. Though I have seen some really bad makeup tattooing (cosmetic surgeons make a lot of money removing those mistakes), I have also seen some great successes. With some careful shopping and interviewing you may find a talented technician who could work slowly and artistically and give you the results you are hoping to see every morning when you wake up and look in the mirror.

Foundation Settling into Pores and Lines

Problem: What causes foundation to settle into the pores and leave tiny little spots, or settle into laugh lines? I do not know whether my moisturizer is too heavy or not heavy enough, whether the foundation is too heavy or too light, or whether I have not waited long enough for the moisturizer to be absorbed.

Solution: Most foundations contain ingredients that provide some amount of movement. If they didn't, they wouldn't blend easily and would feel dry and matte on the skin, making wrinkles look worse. But that also means these foundations can easily slip into pores, making the skin look mottled. Moisturizing when you don't need to would create even more slippage. Unless you have dry skin, there is no reason to wear a moisturizer under foundation. Too much moisturizer (not too little) or too much foundation can absolutely cause slippage into lines and pores. Once you've blended on a foundation, apply a light dusting of powder to set your makeup. Also, try blending on your foundation with a sponge and not your fingers. A flat sponge can pick up excess foundation from the skin and blend it on in an even layer. Most importantly, if you have normal to dry skin, you may want to consider changing to a more matte foundation to avoid slippage. If you have oily skin then you will want to consider an ultra-matte foundation, which won't move throughout the day.

Flaking Eyeshadow

Problem: Whenever I apply eyeshadow, I find eyeshadow sprinkles on my cheeks and under-eye area. What am I doing wrong?

Solution: Make sure you are knocking the excess powder off the brush before you apply your eye makeup. Some eyeshadows are more powdery than others and cause more sprinkles. Eyeshadows from M.A.C., Physicians Formula, Shu Uemura, Bobbi Brown, Jane (at the drugstore), Iman, and Paula's Choice are more reliable in this respect. Another option that some makeup artists use is to apply foundation and concealer to the eye area first; then the eye shadow, liner, and mascara; after that, apply foundation to the rest of the face, touching up the concealer if "drippies" have made a mess of things. Although I find that approach time-consuming, it does help eliminate any trace of stray eyeshadow.

Eyelash Dyes

Problem: A friend of mine gets her eyelashes and eyebrows dyed at the hair salon she goes to. The effect is really rather impressive and I'm tempted to try this myself. Her blonde lashes look dark and long, even without mascara. What do you think?

Solution: Unfortunately, my solution isn't much of a solution, because all I can do is strongly say "Don't do it!" The only safe solution for making lashes and brows more visible is to use mascara on the eyelashes and shade your eyebrows, either with an eyeshadow that matches your hair color, an eyebrow pencil, or a brow mascara like Bobbi Brown's Natural Brow Shaper. But first let me give you a little history on why my answer is such an emphatic "no." Back in 1933, a congressional controversy was brewing over the need for new and stronger food, cosmetic, and drug laws. At the time, the FDA had no authority to move against a cosmetic product called Lash Lure that was causing allergic reactions in many women. Two women, in fact, suffered severe reactions to the product; one woman became blind and the second woman died. When the new Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act was passed in 1938, Lash Lure was the first product seized under its authority. A lot of time has passed since then, and although hair and lash dyes have changed a great deal, they are still formulated with peroxide and ammonia or ammonia-like ingredients. If a dye doesn't contain those ingredients, it can't affect hair color.

No one should ever dye her eyelashes or eyebrows. An allergic reaction to the dye could prompt swelling, inflammation, and susceptibility to infection in the eye area. These reactions can severely harm the eye and even cause blindness. The FDA absolutely prohibits the use of hair dyes for eyebrow and eyelash tinting or dyeing, even in beauty salons and other establishments. The FDA has also continuously warned the public about the use of coal-tar dyes on the eyebrows and eyelashes, stating that using them could cause permanent injury to the eyes, including blindness.

There are no natural or synthetic color additives (or coloring agents) approved by the FDA for dyeing or tinting eyelashes and eyebrows—either in beauty salons or in the home. In fact, the law requires all hair-dye products to include instructions for performing patch tests before use, to identify possible allergic reactions, and to carry warnings about the dangers of applying these products to eyebrows and eyelashes. The health hazards of permanent eyelash and eyebrow dyes have been known for more than 60 years. These dyes have repeatedly been cited in scientific literature as capable of causing serious reactions when placed in direct contact with the eye.

Does Hair Dye Cause Cancer?

Problem: I had a nurse tell me not to use any dark brown or black hair coloring because it might cause cancer. I read your book on hair care about this particular subject explaining there is nothing to worry about, but it seems to still be an issue in the medical world. Is dark hair color safe, or isn't it?

Solution: Unfortunately, few of the 75 million women who color their hair on a regular basis even know that an issue about hair dye and its association with certain types of cancers exists. However, although the issue is real, what it means isn't settled or conclusive in any regard. The best I can do is to provide the information and research that is available so that you can make a final decision for yourself.

Much of this controversy began when a study conducted by the American Cancer Society found that women who used black hair dye for more than 20 years had a slightly increased risk of dying from non-Hodgkin's lymphoma and multiple myeloma (a bone-marrow tumor that is usually malignant). Researchers surveyed 573,369 women who completed questionnaires about their use of permanent hair dye. However, this same study concluded that women who dyed their hair showed a slightly reduced risk overall of dying of cancer than women who never used dyes. (Sources: Journal of the National Cancer Institute, February 2, 1994, pages 210–215; Environmental Health Perspectives, June-July 1994, volume 102, number 6–7.)

Subsequent studies found no correlation and did not support risk of any kind. An article in FDA Consumer magazine, January-February 2001, explained that in a "...study, published in the October 5, 1994, issue of the Journal of the National Cancer Institute, researchers from Brigham and Women's Hospital in Boston followed 99,000 women and found no greater risk of cancers of the blood or lymph systems among women who had ever used permanent hair dyes. Then in 1998, scientists at the University of California at San Francisco questioned 2,544 people about their use of hair-color products. After integrating the results of this study with those of animal and other epidemiological studies, they concluded that there was little convincing evidence linking non-Hodgkin's lymphoma with normal use of hair-color products in humans. The study was published in the December 1998 issue of the American Journal of Public Health."

There have also been other subsequent studies showing hair dye to have no association with cancer or other diseases. One noted that: "The lack of an association between exclusive use of a single type of hair coloring application and breast cancer risk argues that hair coloring application does not influence breast cancer risk among reproductive-age women. Thus, the results of the present study, as well as negative ones from most (but not all) prior studies, are most consistent with the conclusion that neither hair coloring application nor hair spray application influences breast cancer risk" (Source: Cancer Causes and Control, December 1999, pages 551–559). Another stated: "We found no evidence that permanent hair dye use, age at first use, frequency of use, or duration of use is associated with the development of systemic lupus" (Source: Arthritis and Rheumatism, April 1996, pages 657-662).

Then in February 2001 this issue was given new life when researchers from the University of Southern California reported a link between the use of permanent hair coloring and bladder cancer. "They analyzed questionnaires from 897 patients with bladder cancer and compared them to questionnaires from 897 similar individuals without bladder cancer. They found that individuals with bladder cancer were three times as likely to have used permanent hair dyes at least once a month for 15 years or more. In addition, subjects who worked for 10 or more years as hairdressers or barbers were five times more likely to have bladder cancer than people who were not exposed to permanent hair dye" (Source: www.sciencedaily.com).

It is important to point out that this study was an epidemiological investigation looking at behavior and the possible relationships between products and their effect on health. Epidemiological studies are not definitive in any way. For example, it isn't clear from this study what percentage of this group smoked, what kind of diet they had, or whether or not they had other mitigating illnesses. It also doesn't say that hair dye causes cancer, just that it has a casual relationship (meaning there is no definite or conclusive evidence).

As you can tell, the jury is still out on this issue. There is not enough information or research to assert that you should avoid dark-colored hair dyes.

If you want to be extra cautious you can choose to avoid dark permanent or intermediate hair dyes. In view of the University of Southern California study showing that women who dye their hair 12 times or more each year for a period of 15 years were at a higher risk, you may want to consider dying your hair less frequently, no more than say 6 or 8 times a year. It is also important to keep in mind that although hair dyes may increase the risk of getting bladder cancer, such a risk would represent a relatively small number of cases, since women account for only about 15,000 of the 40,000 new cases of bladder cancer diagnosed each year. (Source: www.webmd.com.)

Bleeding Lipstick

Problem: I like sheer lipsticks, but every one I've tried feathers into the lines around my mouth and looks like a mess! I've tried several of the ultra-matte lipsticks, but they look so hard and dry, and pencils are useless. I'm too young to have this problem. Is there something out there I've missed?

Solution: No, you haven't missed anything; sheer lipsticks (which are just glosses in a stick form), both the expensive and inexpensive ones, are slippery and don't stay put. Pencils are helpful, but they can't contain a creamy, glossy lipstick all day. If you have any lines around your mouth—and that's not necessarily related to age—sheer, creamy lipsticks and lip glosses will follow those pathways. Your only option is to give up the notion of a completely sheer look. Try a semi-matte lipstick such as Elizabeth Arden Semi-Matte, Clinique Long Lasting Soft Matte, M.A.C. Matte, or Revlon Absolutely Fabulous LipCream. Once you apply the lipstick, blot with a tissue until it looks more or less sheer. I know it won't have the sheen you're looking for, but it also won't travel into the lines around your mouth. Don't try to put a gloss over that; it will only encourage the lipstick to bleed. Matte lipstick isn't a shield that's impervious to the effect of the gloss. Gloss creates movement no matter what it goes over. Perhaps the best option is to try Cover Girl's Outlast or Max Factor's LipFinity. These are semi-permanent lip stains that don't move and really do stay on, and on, and on.

Touching Up

As the day goes by, even the best-applied makeup can slip, fade, and get phone- or finger-printed. Long days call for a few quick touch-ups to revive beautifully applied makeup.

• If you have oily skin, blot away the excess oil by laying either a tissue or one of the face-blotting papers sold by some cosmetics companies over the face and blotting. Perm endpapers also work well. Do this before you do anything else.
  
  
• Remove all of your lipstick so you can start over after you have touched up your face makeup. Apply a light layer of lip balm if lips feel dry.
  
  
• Once the excess oil on your skin has been absorbed, take a fresh sponge and smooth out the foundation, blush, and contour (women with dry and normal skin should also follow this step). Use a gentle buffing motion, making sure to smooth things as you go.
  
  
• Apply a little extra concealer under the eyes if that area looks a bit dark.
  
  
• If you need a little more foundation over blemishes or discolorations, blend it on now, avoiding the blush and contour area.
  
  
• Dust a light layer of pressed powder over the face. A pressed powder with an SPF 15 that includes the UVA-protecting ingredients avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide is an excellent option to assure all day sun protection.
  
  
• Apply more blush or contour if needed, but only if needed, and be careful—color grabs more over makeup that has been on the face awhile.
  
  
• If you want to touch up your eyeliner, particularly under the eyes where it might have smeared, use a powder shadow instead of a pencil. Use the corner or side of your makeup sponge to remove any evidence of smeared eyeliner.
  
  
• If your eyeshadows have creased, blot the area gently with a tissue or blotting paper and then use a brush to smooth out the color. Apply a powder over the area to even out the shadows and add whatever color is needed to make your eye makeup look balanced.
  
  
• Finally, reapply your lipliner and lipstick.

Marvelous Mascara

The Basics
Mascara is an amazing invention and is considered fundamental to any kind of makeup application. Many makeup artists, including myself, say that if you're not wearing any other makeup but still want to wear something, wear mascara. On the other hand, many of us—and I'm guilty of this too—get carried away and wear way too much mascara.

Unfortunately, applying too much mascara increases the chances that the mascara will flake, chip, or smear, and that the lashes will appear hard and spiked. Also, the eyelashes can take only so much weight, and excess weight can break them. Gunked-up lashes with tons of mascara do not resemble long, thick lashes—they resemble gunked-up lashes.

The desire for longer, more noticeable lashes inspires many women to use the device that curls the lashes by squeezing them into a bent-upward shape. The problem with lash curlers is that they can crimp lashes into a severe angle, which looks unnatural, and while it may make lashes more noticeable, it can also break and pull them out. If you still want to curl your lashes, only do so before you apply mascara, never after, or you will end up with broken or strangely bent lashes. The best lash curlers are the ones with a sponge tip to protect your eyelashes. Squeeze gently with even pressure. Hold for a few seconds and release slowly, following the length of your lashes from root to tip.

Types of Mascara
Mascara comes in two basic types: waterproof and water-soluble. Mascaras should not smudge, flake, or clump. It is not your fault if they do. Price does not tell you anything about how a mascara will perform. Drugstore mascaras can be as good as any on the market, and sometimes even better.

Water-soluble mascaras:The problem with some water-soluble mascaras is that they don't come off easily with water, even though they should. Luckily, there are great water-soluble mascaras that build long, thick lashes without clumping or flaking and that come off with a water-soluble cleanser.

Waterproof mascaras: These can be problematic, because in order to remove this type of mascara you must pull and wipe around the eye area. This, in turn, sags the skin and causes lashes to fall out. I understand the desire to go swimming while wearing your makeup, or to cry at weddings and not have mascara streaming down your cheeks. Waterproof mascara is fine for occasional use, but wearing it every day can cause more headaches in the long run. Another drawback is that most waterproof mascaras can break down and smear due to oil from your skin or emollients in your moisturizer or foundation. Do not make the mistake of thinking that waterproof means smear proof.

Applying Mascara
Start by applying mascara to the lower lashes by holding the wand perpendicular to the eye and parallel to the lashes. Combine this technique with the traditional upper-lash application of brushing the mascara wand from the base of the lashes up. Keep an old, clean mascara wand in your makeup bag to be used for removing mascara clumps and separating lashes. If you want more emphasis on the upper lashes, get the bristles as close to the root as possible, and wiggle the wand back and forth to deposit extra mascara before you brush the wand through the entire lash.

Have you ever had mascara end up on the eyelid or under the eye while you're applying it? Wait until it dries completely and then chip it away with a cotton swab or your sponge. Most of it will just flake off, with very little repair work needed. Always check for mascara smudges; they can look sloppy and distracting.

Mistakes to Avoid

• Do not wear colored mascara such as blue, purple, or green if you're going for a professional daytime look.
• Do not tolerate mascara that smears; there are lots that don't.
• Do not use waterproof mascaras on a daily basis; they are too difficult to remove and too hard on your lashes.
• Do not forget to apply mascara evenly to lower lashes.
• Do not over-apply mascara; your lashes will look clumpy.

Eyebrow Shaping and Shading

Discovering the best shape for your eyebrows without sacrificing their natural appearance is what you want to accomplish when shaping your brows. Pencil thin or overly bushy eyebrows are dated looks that can be distracting rather than enhancing. Just as the shape of a mustache can drastically change the appearance of a man's face, the shape of the eyebrows affects the appearance of the eyes. In many ways, the overall appearance of the eye area is defined by the arch, length, and thickness of the eyebrow. There are two methods for creating the perfect brow, shaping it by removing unwanted hair or filling in a sparse or blonde brow. Tweezing the Brow--It's All in the Details Which hairs you tweeze and which ones you don't is the difference between attractively shaped brows and misshapen ones. Try using an eyebrow pencil to draw on different shapes over your brow area to see which shape looks the best. Use a magnifying mirror, at least a 5X magnification, so you can see each hair. Go slowly (one hair at a time) so you don't over-tweeze. The beginning of the brow should align with the center of the nostril. The arch of the brow should fall at the back third of the eye. The eyebrow should follow the length of the eye but it shouldn't extend into the temple area. The basic rule is that the front part of the brow should never drop below the back part of the brow. Allowing this to happen, either with the way you tweeze your eyebrows or the way you draw them on, makes you look like you’re frowning and overemphasizes the downward movement of the back part of the eye. Avoid over-tweezing above the brow. A few stray hairs are fine to remove, but too much and it can create an unnatural look. Do not overstate the shape of the brow; minimal brow alteration is best. Do not pluck brows into a thin line thinking it will make your eyes look larger. It can look dated or give the face a surprised look and this shape is not easy to correct once the damage is done. The Best Tools for Tweezing To shape the brow, tweezing is probably the best option for accuracy and to prevent mistakes. The best tweezers are the ones from Revlon or Tweezerman (www.tweezerman.com). Which type (both companies offer several options) works best for you is about personal preference. Waxing is an option but it's hard to control the wax. You may inadvertently remove the wrong hairs. Never shave. This leaves a 5 o'clock shadow on the face and that is not a great look. Tweezing and Trimming to Shape a Perfect Brow 1. Before you start tweezing, use a lip or brow pencil to heavily draw on the shape you want; you can adjust it with makeup remover as you decide on the shape you want to create. 2. Once the shape is drawn on, tweeze any hairs that fall outside the line of the brow. 3. Next, brush the brows straight up with an old toothbrush. 4. Any hairs that are too long and floppy should be trimmed with small scissors. Tweezing long brow hairs rather than trimming them can result in gaps in the eyebrow or create a patchy appearance.		Perfectly Shaped Eyebrows: The shape of the eyebrow is correct when the beginning of the brow is aligned with the center of the nostril and the arch falls over the back third of the eye. L-Shaped Brow Problem: The arch is over the front third of the eye. Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area. U-Shaped Brow Problem: The eyebrow has no arch. Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area. Over-Extended Brow (back) Problem: The back third of the brow is lower than the front third of the brow. Solution: Grow in or color in the indicated area and tweeze the end of the brow to align it with the front of the brow. Over-Extended Brow (front) Problem: The front third of the brow is lower than the back third of the brow. Solution: Tweeze the front of the brow to align it with the back of the brow.
How to Fill in the Brow Using Products There are many ways to fill in a brow. The easiest to consider are: Brow Powders or powder eyeshadows in shades that closely match the color of your brow. Choose a soft-textured matte powder and apply with a soft wedge brush or a thin liner brush. Begin application in the center of the brow and work outward toward the brow tip then back toward the beginning of the brow. Use short, light strokes between the brow hairs, and apply a bit more pressure (for stronger color) when defining the underside of the brow. Use a clean toothbrush (or a brow brush, which is similar but more expensive) to soften the color and groom the brow. For unruly brows, a clear brow gel may be applied to keep hairs in place. Alternately, you may apply a bit of hairspray to the toothbrush, and comb this through the brow for hold and control. Eyebrow pencils are a standard way to fill in brows but many can produce a greasy, hard look or mat the brow hair, so make sure you use a pencil that has a smooth, light texture and soft, dry finish. If penciling doesn't look absolutely natural, don’t do it. Follow the same application technique described under brow powders when using an eyebrow pencil. Keep in mind that most brow pencils deposit stronger color than a powder, so take care to use a light touch. If you apply too much color, soften the effect with a Q-Tip that has been dipped in makeup remover. Do not apply eyebrow pencil too close to the inner brow (near the nose). Adding more than a bit of color here tends to create a too-strong or angry-looking brow. Colored eyebrow gelsand brow tints are my personal favorite for making the most of sparse, light-colored eyebrows or for giving a thicker look to most other eyebrows. These products look like mascara but they have a much lighter consistency and are less pigmented. At first, you might have trouble controlling the amount of gel or tint you apply to your brow, but once you get the hang of it, brow gel or tint can make sparse brows look full and more natural. Paula's Choice Brow/Hair Tint is a product I am never without! When applying eyebrow gels and tints, follow the basic instructions for powder eyebrow colors and eyeshadows listed above, but concentrate on the brow hair and not applying any on the skin. Be patient, it requires practice before you can easily shape and shade the brows without getting it on the skin. If the brush of your brow gel or tint is dual-sided (most are), know that the longer bristles are great for combing through the brows when hairs are normal to long in length. The short-bristled side is for more detailed work or for use on shorter, thin, or over-tweezed brows. A combination approach, using a pencil with powder, can give you the control and delineation of a pencil, and the softer, shaded look of a powder. You can also use powder with a brow gel or tint; this can create a full softly shaped brow. You can try shaping the brow with the powder first and then finish the detail work with the pencil or brow gel. This is especially helpful if you have bald spots in your eyebrow or need to slightly extend the end of your brows so they frame your eyes better. Essential Tips Use an eyebrow pencil or powder that matches the color of your own eyebrows. If you have pale or blonde eyebrows use a color that is only one or two shades deeper than your natural brow color—this prevents a fake or drawn-on look. Brush the brow up with a toothbrush. Whether you are using a pencil or powder, follow the basic shape of the existing brow, using the tweezing guidelines above. Apply the color by filling in the shape of the brow between the hairs where needed. As much as possible, work only with the hair that is there. The idea is to shade rather than draw on eyebrows. Fill in only at the front or underneath the brow, or through the brow itself. Do not place your brow color, whether it is pencil or powder, more than one-quarter inch away from where the natural hair growth stops. This would accentuate the fact that there is no brow there in the first place! Do not forget that eyebrow color should look shaded and soft, not like a straight, hard line. When applying brow gel, brush the color through the brow in much the same fashion as you apply mascara to the eyelashes. Brush the wand through your brows, being careful not to get the product on the skin and not to leave the brows standing straight up. It will probably take you a few applications to get the hang of it. Do Tweezed Hairs Grow Back? The answer is yes and no. Tweezed eyebrow hairs can grow back but this doesn’t happen overnight. Hairs on different parts of the body have variable rates of growth. It takes about 64 days for eyebrow hair to grow in after it is plucked. However, the length of time can be longer if the hair or hairs you want to grow back are in their resting phase. At any given time, 90% of the hair on your body is in a resting phase where it has stops growing, falls out, and then starts growing again. If that's the case (and there is no way to know which hairs are in the resting phase and which aren’t), then the length of time can be far greater, so you need to be patient. There is an exception to this: if you have been tweezing the same area for a long time it may be too late. Eyebrow hair is very sensitive to injury. Repeated plucking can permanently damage the hair root, which will prevent the hair from ever growing back (Sources: www.keratin.com and Archives of Facial and Plastic Surgery, July-September 1999, pages 223-224). An interesting bit of information: The average number of days it takes for hair to fully grow back after being plucked from various parts of the body are 129 days for the scalp, 123 for under arm, 121 for the thigh, 92 for the chin, and 64 for the eyebrows. Unfortunately for women, hairs of the scalp regenerate more quickly for males than females, but hairs of the under arm and thigh regenerate more quickly in females than males

Determining Your Skin Tone

Skin tone is so important in choosing the right makeup, but you may be wondering just how to go about identifying your own skin tone. What should you look for? What if your skin tone seems neutral but has areas of mild discoloration or redness? The good news is that identifying your skin tone need not be difficult. A simple method of determination is to consider whether your skin burns or tans when exposed to sun:

1. If you tan easily and do not burn, your skin's natural melanin (the pigment that gives skin its color) level is higher, and you most likely have a yellow-to-olive undertone.
   
   
2. Those who burn and either tan minimally or not at all have significantly less melanin, which results in a pink, bluish-red, or ruddy skin tone. In addition, look for telltale signs: a ruddy skin tone has obvious signs of redness or is one that tends to flush easily. Some neutral skin tones fall into this category, particularly if rosacea is a factor.
   
3. If a yellow (usually referred to as "sallow") tone is predominant, you'll notice that a foundation, concealer, or powders with too much yellow will make skin look worse, not better.
   
   
4. Olive skin tones tend to look somewhat ashen or gray, from the combination of the natural yellow undertone everyone has and the greenish hue that’s unique to olive skin of any depth.
   
   
5. Neutral skin tones are those with no obvious overtones of olive, sallow, or pink.

These categories hold true for all women, including women of color; your underlying skin color will always relate to one of these skin tones. You may have been told that you are a particular “season” and your wardrobe and makeup colors should be a specific undertone, either cool (blue or pink tones) or warm (yellow or sallow/olive tones). Unfortunately, the rampant misinformation surrounding skin tone can be misleading when it comes to choosing your most flattering makeup shades.

The question of determining skin tone comes into play most often when shopping for your ideal shade of foundation. When you’re testing foundation shades, it is critical to identify your overall, exact skin color and find a foundation that matches it, regardless of how ashen/olive, sallow, or pink it appears on the surface. The goal is to use foundation to neutralize whatever overtones are present with a neutral- to slightly yellow-toned foundation, thus matching the skin’s natural undertone. Why a slightly yellow undertone? Because skin color, more often than not, always has a yellow undertone: that’s just what the natural color of melanin tends to be. For the most part, regardless of your race, nationality, or age, your foundation should be some shade of neutral ivory, neutral beige, tan, dark brown, bronze brown, or ebony, with a slight undertone of yellow but without any obvious orange, pink, rose, green, ash, or blue. Adding those shades to a foundation is never flattering and can look obvious and contrived.

There are a few exceptions to this guideline: Native North American or South American women, a tiny percentage of African-American women, and some Polynesian women do indeed have a red cast to their skin. In those instances the information about neutral foundations should be ignored. Because their skin has a slightly reddish cast, they need to look for foundations that have a slightly reddish cast to them—but that’s only a hint of brownish red, and not copper, orange, or peach.

But regardless of these skin tone categories, when it comes to foundation, trying it on and making it sure it matches your skin exactly (especially in daylight) is the best way to get a color that looks like you, not like you’re wearing foundation or, even worse, a mask.

Choosing Makeup Colors to Work with Your Skin Tone
A look through any fashion magazine is great for figuring out what colors work best with your skin tone. Redheads with fair to medium skin tones like Susan Sarandon, Nicole Kidman, and Julianne Moore tend to wear corals, salmon, browns, ambers, bronze, and other earth tones. Blondes with fair skin to medium skin tones like Gwyneth Paltrow, Paris Hilton, and Kirsten Dunst favor a range of pink shades. Brunettes with fair to medium skin tones like Julia Roberts and Jennifer Garner are often seen in light rose and soft red shades. Women with dark brown hair and fair to medium skin tones like Demi Moore, Sandra Bullock, and Penelope Cruz wear more vivid shades of rose and cherry. Black hair and deeper skin tones such as Halle Berry and Angela Bassett wear soft natural tones such as nude pinks, soft browns, and pale corals. It is also easy to see that there are exceptions to the rule and as a change of pace all kinds of color combinations (not to mention changes in hair color) are typical. In other words, choosing color can be as diverse and versatile as changing your clothes. To be safe, stay with the basics listed above, but in truth, anything goes as long as it is worn in balance and the colors work together.

Day into Night: Transforming Your Look for Evening Elegance

How do you change your makeup from an office or daytime look to a knockout evening visage? Here are some ideas to consider:

• Use the same shade of dark or black eyeshadow to create a more dramatic line around the eye and you can smudge this to create a sultry appearance.
  
  
• Use a wedge or angle brush to add extra definition to the arch of your eyebrows, or add a bit more brow powder to the ends of your brows (but don’t overdo it, and don’t extend your brows more than ¼ inch past the eye’s outer corner).
  
  
• Add some shimmering highlights to the cheekbones, center of the forehead, chin, neck, shoulders, or décolletage. Use a shimmery powder (applied with a brush), or a shimmery liquid.
  
  
• A vivid red lipstick always makes a dramatic evening look, especially if you are wearing black.
  
  
• Deepen your daytime lipstick by mixing it with a darker lip liner from the same tonal family. Be sure to blend the edges well—this is not the "light lipstick, dark lipliner" look—then apply an ultra-shiny lip gloss.
  
  
• Avoid overdoing your blush. Making the cheeks look overly colorful doesn't improve an evening look. If you want to further accent the cheek and/or temple area, the two best choices are applying a bronzing powder (matte or with slight shimmer) to add depth and definition or applying a few drops of liquid shimmer to the cheekbone area and blend lightly so as not to disturb your blush. When applying bronzing powder, use a Powder or Blush brush, and apply a sheer layer of color, brushing down from the temple area over the cheekbone and apple of the cheek. Soften any hard edges with a sponge.
  
  
• Avoid applying more mascara, unless you're adept at doing so without creating a clumpy, spiky mess.

Correcting Popular Makeup Myths

Some makeup artists say that you shouldn't be afraid to touch your makeup. The truth is, you should be very careful about touching it. After you've taken time to smoothly apply your foundation and eyeshadows, there's no reason to use your fingers unless it's absolutely necessary. Touching your face during the day will rub off all your nicely applied makeup.

Don't spray water or toner on makeup to set or freshen it up. It doesn't work. A mist of water can streak foundation, powder, and mascara.

Don't change every part of your makeup with every season. If you want to go softer during the spring and summer, that's fine, but it isn't an absolute must.

Don't use makeup to correct the shape of anything on your face, especially the lips. Close up and in person you can tell when lipstick has been applied beyond or inside the natural lip line. If you overcontour, you will look like you have brown stripes all over your face.

Don't use foundation or color correctors to change the color of your skin. Foundation must match the underlying skin tone exactly. If you have yellow or olive skin there's nothing you can do to change it. Even if it did look good on your face, any correction would look strange next to your neck and along the hairline.

To keep pencil eyeliner in place, many makeup artists recommend going over it with a matching powder eyeshadow. That works, but why do two steps when only one is needed? Forget the pencil and just use a brush to apply your eyeshadow (mixed with water if necessary) to begin with.

Glowing skin does look nice, but mostly in pictures. In real life, the same skin looks like it is covered with glitter. That isn't necessarily bad, but any wrinkles will be illuminated. It can be an option for an evening out, but that's about it.

No single set of colors is right for all skin or hair colors. Just because you have red hair and fair skin doesn't mean you have to wear corals and avoid blue-red lipstick. Honestly, most women can wear just about any color they want to, as long as they pay attention to color intensity and application and adjust the details accordingly.

Color Basics

Here are some guidelines that can help you create the makeup look you want.

• Less is best.
  
  
• Foundation should match the skin exactly so there are no lines of demarcation.
  
  
• Concealer should be only a shade or two lighter than the foundation.
  
  
• Powder should match the foundation exactly or go on translucent so as not to affect the color of the foundation.
  
  
• Eyeshadow colors should be neutral or pale shades ranging from pale beige to pink to tan, brown, dark brown, and plums.
  
  
• Eyeshadow color (when used as a brow tint), should match the exact shade of the existing brow hair.
  
  
• Eyeliner on the upper lid should be a darker color than the line along the lower lid (which should be a softer shade of beige or brown).
  
  
• Blush can be almost any color as long as it coordinates with the lipstick color, but it must be blended on softly, without any noticeable edges.  A coordinating blush need not match your lipstick, but should be in the same tonal family.
  
  
• Lipstick guidelines are more versatile, from neutral to bold, with the only suggestion being that smaller lips should wear brighter shades than larger lips.
  
  
• To create a tanned appearance, use golden brown and chestnut shades for your blush, eyeshadows, contour, and lipstick, but do not, under any circumstances, apply a foundation or bronzer all over the face if it leaves a line of demarcation at the jaw or hairline.
  
  
• If you are wearing wardrobe colors like red or pink you can match your lipstick with that color. However, try not to clash color tone. For example, if the outfit you are wearing is peach or coral, your blush and lipstick should have that same underlying color or be a neutral tone.

Color Mistakes to Avoid

• Don't wear white or very pale lipstick. This can make you look like a ghost.
  
  
• Don't wear blue or green makeup!
  
  
• Don't wear navy blue eyeshadow unless it is a deep, inky, almost black navy.  Stick with neutrals, pinks and plums, or black, which look smoky.
  
  
• Don't wear dark brown or black lipstick. (On Dracula it's great; on women, it looks like death.)
  
  
• Don't wear really shiny eyeshadows.
  
  
• Don't wear rainbow-style eyeshadow designs. Always blend the edges of color.
  
  
• Don't wear eyeshadow applied as a smudge of black around the eye, unless your objective is to look like you are in a punk rock band.
  
  
• Don't wear clashing blush and lipstick; they should be in the same color family.

Beauty Tips for The Big Day—Ready for Your Close Up?

Whether getting ready for your wedding day or another momentous occasion, the following tips and reminders will ensure that you look beautiful in person and in photographs:

1. Keep in mind that regardless of the product, shade, or application technique, makeup is only as good as the skin it covers. Take time in the months leading up to the big day to treat your skin well and avoid using products that cause irritation or can cause side effects such as dryness, flaking, or redness. Anticipate your skin’s needs based on its history and the weather (is the event in a location where it will be more humid, arid, or cold than your skin is used to?) then choose products accordingly.
   
   
2. Do not have a facial, microdermabrasion, peel, or any other spa or dermatologist treatment within two weeks of the event, especially if you have not had such procedures performed in the past. The last thing you want to deal with is the complications that could result. If a trip to the spa is part of your bridal bliss, use the time to get a stress-relieving massage or manicure and pedicure rather than a facial.
   
   
3. Anticipate being photographed and take into account the lighting. Outdoor wedding photos demand different makeup than indoor photos. Outdoor lighting is most flattering in late afternoon as the sun begins to set. If possible, avoid scheduling an outdoor wedding ceremony and photos for midday when the sun is directly overhead. This casts unwanted shadows on your face and is universally unflattering. Less makeup is preferred for outdoor weddings. Use a sheer, satin-matte foundation, a light dusting of pressed powder, powder blush, soft eyeshadow colors that are matte or barely shiny, and eyeliner that is dark brown or slate gray rather than black, which can look too harsh in daylight. Lips can be any color, but keep in mind that opaque lipstick with sheer makeup can look too contrasting. Generally, outdoor makeup looks best with creamy lipsticks. For mascara, choose brown if you have blonde hair (dyed or not). All other hair colors should stick with black mascara, preferably waterproof unless you’re sure you won’t cry!
   
   
4. For indoor ceremonies, you must take flash photography into consideration. A camera's flash tends to emphasize pink or ruddy skin tones, so proper camouflage with a neutral- to yellow-toned foundation is a must. Avoid foundations and powders with sunscreens in which titanium dioxide or zinc oxide are the active ingredients. Both of these mineral pigments have an opaque, reflective quality that can make your face look whiter than the neck in photos. A small amount of titanium dioxide in your foundation or powder is fine; it just shouldn't be an active ingredient where the concentration is considerably higher.
   
   
5. Be sure your foundation matches your skin color exactly. Check to be sure there is no line of demarcation at the jaw, hairline, and temples. In general, liquid foundations with a soft matte finish work best because they are versatile and let your natural skin tone show through. Cream-to-powder and stick foundations tend to offer heavier coverage that, unless carefully blended, can look mask-like. It may be tempting, but do not mix a liquid shimmer product with your foundation to make skin look more radiant. In photos, even when used judiciously, shimmer can make skin look slick and greasy instead of luminescent, especially after wearing it for a few hours. And once the event begins, stealing away for touch-ups is unlikely.
   
   
6. Seek a powder that closely matches your skin tone. Pressed powder is more portable and easier to use than the loose version. Look for a pressed powder with a silky texture and skin-like finish. Today's modern powder formulas (particularly those from Estee Lauder, L'Oreal, M.A.C., Prescriptives, and Maybelline) make skin look beautifully polished, not powdered or ultra-matte. Apply the powder with a professional brush, not a puff or sponge. If you have normal to dry skin, only powder the T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and leave the cheeks with the soft matte finish your foundation provides.
   
   
7. For blush, powder formulas tend to photograph best and hold up over the long haul. If in doubt about which shade to choose, opt for those in the rose or pink family if you have fair to medium skin and choose rosy-plum tones if your skin tone is medium to tan. Do not make the mistake of under-applying blush, especially for indoor photos. Wedding makeup is formal, and requires more color than you may normally wear. Make sure your blush is in the same tonal family as your lipstick (for example, pair a pink blush with a pink, berry, or rose-toned lipstick).
   
   
8. The color of your makeup design should come from your blush and lipstick, not your eyeshadow. Keep tones muted and matte so that they emphasize, not compete with, your natural eye color. As a general rule, you can't go wrong with eyeshadow colors that have a brown, tan, taupe, or neutral base. Think earth tones (slate, shell pink, bronze) and "food" tones (cream, caramel, coffee). If you want to add a touch of shimmer to your eye makeup, find the sheerest product possible, apply sparingly to highlight your brow bone or the inner corners of your eyes, and make sure you like how it looks in photos before the big day arrives.
   
   
9. Pay attention to your eyebrows. Do not attempt any new tweezing techniques or patterns, but do see a professional brow groomer who has loads of experience shaping brows so they frame your eyes as attractively as possible. A brow pro can also show you how to make the most of sparse, thin, or barely-there eyebrows. For wedding makeup, use brow powder, a matte powder eyeshadow, or tinted brow gel rather than traditional brow pencil to shape and define.
   
   
10. Be sure to carry your lipstick and lip liner with you for touch-ups after the ceremony and before the reception. It is also helpful to carry a pressed powder and small powder brush, as well as a clean makeup sponge in case you need to buff or smooth any aspect of your makeup, especially lipstick marks from over-zealous relatives or friends.

Applying Eyeliner

Assuming you have a steady hand (if not, try this sitting down so you can steady your arm by placing your elbow on a table), position your brush, pencil, or applicator so it is as close to the lash-line along the eyelid as possible. Then draw a line from the inner to outer corner using one fluid stroke, following the curvature of the eyelid. Do not extend the line past the outer corner of the eye or hug the tear-drop area of the eye. To start, keep the line as thin as possible, and if a thicker line is desired, repeat the process either across the entire lash-line or simply on the outer third of the lid along the lashes. Making the line along the eyelid a solid, even one, starting thin at the front third of the lid and becoming slightly thicker at the back third of the lid can be an attractive classic look.

You can line all the way across the eyelid if you like, from the inside corner to the outer edge, or you can stop the line where the lashes stop and start. Along the lower lashes, line only the outer two-thirds of the eye. Be sure the lower liner is a less-intense color than the upper liner. Also make sure that the two lines meet at the back corner of the eye. As a general rule, avoid lining all the way across the lower eyelashes. Leaving some space on the inside corner of the eye where the lashes end near the tear ducts gives a softer, less severe look. Plus, wrapping a complete circle of eyeliner around the eye tends to create an eyeglasses look and can make the eyeliner a stronger statement than the eye itself.

How thickly can you line the eye? As a general rule, for a classic look, the thickness and intensity of the eyeliner is determined by the size of the lid—the larger the eyelid area, the thicker and softer the eyeliner should be. The smaller the eyelid area, the thinner and more intense the liner should be. If your lid doesn't show at all, forget lining altogether.

What about applying eyeliner in the rim of the eye? There are many reasons why this is not a good idea. The first is that this kind of application smears in a very short period of time and creates goopy dark specks in the eye. Applying any makeup that is destined to smear in less than an hour or two is not a good idea. Pencil applied along the rim of the eye usually causes the area to become irritated; after all you are putting a foreign substance next to the mucous membrane of your eye. I am equally concerned about the health of the eye area when this technique is used. While there are no studies indicating there are any risks associated with pencil being applied to the rim of the eye, it seems problematic to put cosmetic ingredients (that include coloring agents and preservatives) that close to the eye.

Which eyeliner color should you use? For a classic eyeliner application, choose shades of dark brown, gray, or black eyeshadow for the upper lid and a softer shade of those—tan, taupe, chestnut, soft brown, soft gray, or soft black—along the lower lashes. Eyeliner is meant to give depth to the lashes and make them appear thicker. If the liner is a bright color or a true pastel, attention will be focused past the lashes to the colored line, as opposed to the more subtle flow of color from dark lashes to dark liner. Test it on yourself. Line one eye with a vibrant color, the other eye with brown or black, and see which one looks like it has thicker lashes. Then, if all my attempts to convince you have failed, and you still prefer to use bright or pastel liners, go for it.

Checking for Mistakes
After using powder eyeshadow as eyeliner, check for drippies under the eye and on the cheek. Drippies are those little powder flakes that fly off the brush and land on the cheek. Knocking off the excess from the brush every time helps prevent drippies, but there will always be flakes that end up where they don't belong. The best way to go after drippies is to use your sponge and simply wipe them away. If you do this, your next step is to touch up your foundation if that has gotten smeared. Always double-check the intensity of your eyeliner application and blend away any thickness or color that is more dramatic than you intended. If you do choose to wear pencil eyeliner, check for smears under the eye as the day goes by. This is annoying, but letting it go without blending away the smears can make any well-applied, eye-makeup design look like a mess.

Eyeliner Mistakes to Avoid

1. Do not use greasy or slick pencils to line the lower lashes; they smear and smudge.
   
   
2. Do not use brightly colored pencils or eyeshadows to line the eye; they are distracting and automatically look like too much makeup. All you'll see is the color and not your eye.
   
   
3. Do not extend the eyeliner beyond the corner of the eye (no wings).
   
   
4. Do not make the eyeliner the most obvious part of the eye-makeup design.
   
   
5. Do not line the inside rim of the lids, between the lash and the eye itself; it is messy and can be unhealthy for the cornea.
   
   
6. If you do use pencil to line the eye, apply a small amount of eyeshadow over your pencil eyeliner to help set it and keep it from smearing.
   
   
7. Do not apply thick eyeliner to small or close-set eyes.
   
   
8. Do not use eyeshadow as eyeliner unless you use the proper brush (one with a small, precise, fine-tipped point).
   
   
9. Do not line the eye with a circle of dark or bright color. Both are too obvious and create an eyeglass-style circle around the eye.
   
   
10. Do not overblend, spilling your eyeliner onto the skin under the lower lashes; that makes dark circles look worse.